Miskolc is the great industrial city of northern Hungary, wedged into a valley where the foothills of the Bükk mountains come down to the plain. For a century its blast furnaces and steelworks at Diósgyőr defined it, and when that industry shrank the city had to find another face. It has found a gentler one, with thermal baths, parks and cultural festivals, though the mood remains plain and working-class, with block-built estates and stout, friendly people.
A few sights stand out. The castle at Diósgyőr, a Gothic stronghold built in the fourteenth century, was a favourite royal residence under Louis the Great, and its restored towers are now used for medieval festivals. At Miskolctapolca, a spa suburb, you can bathe in warm water inside natural caves, a curious and relaxing experience after a long ride. In the hills to the west lies Lillafüred, a small resort around a lake with a grand palace-hotel and a waterfall tumbling beside it, reached by a narrow-gauge forest railway or a winding road.
For motorcyclists the Bükk is the draw. The plateau and its beech forest are cut by roads with sweeping bends, steep climbs and sudden views across the valleys, lightly trafficked by Hungarian standards and surfaced reasonably well, though some stretches are patchy. The sinuous road toward Szilvásvárad, where Lipizzaner horses are bred, is among the finest rides in the country. To the east, the Tokaj wine region lies about an hour away, with vineyards on volcanic slopes famous for sweet golden wine.
Hungary uses an electronic vignette for motorways, and fuel is available at stations throughout the city and along the main roads. Local dishes include stuffed cabbage, goulash cooked in a cauldron and langos, fried dough with sour cream and cheese.
Late spring and early autumn are best, with cool nights in the hills.