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Mirșid - Dealul Mare 2

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Mirsid lies on the edge of the Meses Mountains, and what makes it special is a Roman frontier post just up the road. At Porolissum, in the village of Moigrad, the Romans built a fort, a town and a customs station on the high ground above the pass, and from here they controlled the northern gate of their province of Dacia. Trade and troops passed through the Meses Gate, a narrow notch in the mountains, and the ruins, including the walls of the fort, the remains of an amphitheatre and a customs post, can still be seen on the hill. Porolissum is one of the best-preserved Roman fort complexes in Romania.

Dealul Mare, the Big Hill, is one of the ridges nearby, and the label has no feature to offer beyond the view: a wooded height in the Meses range, with grassy clearings and the typical pattern of oak on the sunny slopes and beech on the shady ones. From the crest, on a clear day, you can look over the hills of Salaj and across to the Somes valley.

The roads in the area are enjoyable for a leisurely ride. Between Zalau and the pass, the road climbs gradually through forested hills and villages, with a pleasant series of curves, though lorries and local traffic mean you should not hurry. Surfaces are generally acceptable, with occasional potholes. In winter, the pass can be icy, and snow may fall as early as November.

Mirsid, with a bit over two thousand people, has shops and a few places to eat, and Dobrin, to the south, is smaller. Zalau, a short ride away, is the place for fuel and larger supplies. The countryside around produces plums, apples and walnuts, and a roadside stall may offer jars of honey or plum jam in season.

The dry months of June to September are the best time for the ruins, but autumn is attractive, with the forest colours. At the site, take water and a hat, since there is little shade, and watch your step on uneven stones.

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