Mirbat is a small, quiet town on the Arabian Sea, about seventy kilometres east of Salalah, and it has more history than its size suggests. For centuries it was a trading port, exporting frankincense and fine horses to India, and a few old houses with carved doors and wooden shutters survive in the old quarter, though many are in ruins. The town has a low white fort, a pretty beach and a fishing harbour where the boats come in at dawn, and the calm of the place is a relief after the traffic of Salalah.
It also has a place in more recent history. In July 1972, during the Dhofar rebellion, a small garrison here, with the help of British SAS soldiers, held off a large guerrilla attack in a battle that is still remembered in Oman and in Britain, and the old fort at the edge of town is where the fighting took place. The tomb of Mohammed bin Ali, a scholar of the twelfth century who is revered as a saint, lies in the town and draws visitors.
The road from Salalah follows the coast, passing Taqah, a small town with an old castle, and Khor Rori, an ancient port site, with a ruined city beside a lagoon that was an important frankincense harbour more than two thousand years ago. It is an easy, fast ride on good tarmac, with the sea on one side and the mountains on the other, and it is a good way to end a day. In the khareef the mountains are green and often hidden in cloud, and the temperature drops, while in the rest of the year the sun is strong and the sea breeze is welcome.
Fuel is easiest in Salalah, and a filling station may be found at Taqah, so make sure you have enough before heading out. In Mirbat, small cafes serve tea, simple meals and fresh fish. Watch for camels on the road, particularly in the evening, and take care on the roundabouts, where sand collects. A walk on the beach at sunset, with the boats drawn up and the call to prayer drifting across the water, is a fine way to finish the ride.