César Manrique built a viewpoint out of a cliff and made it look as though it had always been there. The Mirador del Río stands on the Risco de Famara, a sheer wall of rock about 475 metres above the sea at the northern end of Lanzarote, and it is half hidden in the hill, a low white building with a curved roof, and round windows that look over the water. From its terrace and glass windows, you see the narrow strait called El Río, the island of La Graciosa lying flat and pale in the blue, and the other small islands of the Chinijo archipelago beyond.
Manrique designed it in the early 1970s, on the site of an old military gun emplacement, and the building has become a symbol of his philosophy: make architecture serve the landscape rather than overwhelm it. The interior is all curved white walls and round windows, a quiet space with a café and a small shop, and from the outside it is almost invisible. The view is the thing. Below you, the salt pans of Salinas del Río glimmer in the strait, and on clear days the whole coastline of the north is spread beneath. An entrance fee is charged, and in high season there is often a queue.
The ride is a short and rewarding one. From Haría, the road climbs to the cliff top in a series of bends, with views opening on either side, and ends at a car park beside the building. The surface is good, the corners are well-marked, and the wind is usually strong. Cloud often settles over the cliff in the morning, and a view that was clear at nine can disappear by ten, so check conditions before committing.
A café at the viewpoint serves drinks and light snacks, with prices to match the view. From the coast road at Orzola, ferries cross to La Graciosa, if you want to add an excursion.
Go early, before the tour buses arrive and while the sun is behind you, to see the colours of the sea at their best.