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Minturn

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Minturn was a railroad town and a rough one, built in the 1880s where the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad climbed the Eagle River valley toward Tennessee Pass, and it kept the character of a working place long after the trains stopped. The main street is a short row of old brick and timber buildings, a few bars and restaurants, and a farmers' market in summer. It lies in a narrow valley between steep slopes, with the Eagle River running through, and only a few miles from the resort of Vail, which was built in the 1960s on what had been sheep pastures. People in Minturn like to say that they are the real place, and they have a point.

The Top of the Rockies Scenic Byway runs south from here, up US 24 and over Tennessee Pass at 10,424 feet, then down to Leadville, the highest incorporated city in the United States. On the way you pass Red Cliff, with its high steel bridge, and the site of Camp Hale, where the Tenth Mountain Division trained for winter war in the Second World War, and where many of the soldiers who returned went on to found ski resorts across the West. The valley is quiet, with big meadows, aspen groves and views of the Sawatch Range, whose peaks include some of the highest in the state.

The riding is smooth and enjoyable, with long, broad curves, steady climbs and little traffic compared with the Interstate. The road is well surfaced and the grades moderate, though the altitude makes engines feel a little flat and riders a little breathless. Weather can change rapidly, with afternoon storms bringing cold rain, hail and lightning, and snow can arrive early in autumn and linger into late spring. Check pass conditions in the cold months.

Minturn is small, with about a thousand residents, but it has fuel and food, and Vail, eight miles away, has everything else. Shops there are pricey, so Minturn is the better place for a cheap breakfast. The best time to ride is June to September, with aspen colour in late September.

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