A thousand kilometres south of Tokyo, in the Pacific Ocean, the Ogasawara Islands rise from the sea, a scattered chain of volcanic islands that have never been connected to a continent. Minamijima, a small uninhabited island just off Chichijima, is one of their jewels: a ring of jagged limestone around a sheltered cove, the Ogiura, with white sand, turquoise water and a sinkhole beach that looks like something from a dream. The island and its reefs are part of the Ogasawara Islands World Heritage site, listed by UNESCO in 2011.
The islands are known as the Galápagos of the Orient, because their isolation has allowed many unique species to evolve, including land snails, plants, insects and birds found nowhere else. Minamijima has strict rules to protect its fragile ecosystem: visitors must be accompanied by a licensed guide, the number of visitors per day is limited, and the island is closed for part of the year. On the beach, you may see the shells of extinct land snails, a reminder of the island's long evolutionary history. Around the islands, the sea is home to dolphins, whales and sea turtles, and the reefs are rich in fish and coral.
There is no motorcycle riding on Minamijima itself, as it is uninhabited and accessible only by boat. On Chichijima, the main inhabited island, you can rent scooters to explore the island's roads, which wind along the coast and over the hills, with viewpoints over the sea and the reefs. Traffic is light, and the roads are narrow and twisty. Getting to the islands requires a ferry journey of around twenty-four hours from Tokyo, as there is no airport.
Chichijima has a small town with shops, restaurants and accommodation, as well as fuel for scooter rentals. Local specialities include seafood, such as turtle stew, a traditional dish, and tropical fruits like passion fruit. Book boat tours to Minamijima in advance, as places are limited, and respect the rules to protect this unique environment. Bring sun protection, water and a sense of wonder.