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Militello Val di Catania

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Militello in Val di Catania is a small town in the hills south-west of Catania, in eastern Sicily, surrounded by orange groves and olive trees, with Mount Etna visible on the horizon. Like many towns in this part of Sicily, it was devastated by the earthquake of 1693, which destroyed much of the south-east of the island, and was rebuilt in the Baroque style. Its churches and palaces are part of the UNESCO-listed Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto, inscribed in 2002, together with Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Caltagirone and others.

Militello has a remarkable number of churches for its size, with Baroque façades and rich interiors, and a museum with sacred art. The town was a fief of the Branciforte family, who made it a centre of culture in the seventeenth century, with a court that attracted artists and scholars. The town also has a strong connection to the actor and director Pippo Baudo, a famous Italian television presenter, who was born here.

The area around Militello is known for its oranges, especially the blood oranges of the Piana di Catania, which have a protected designation. The town also produces prickly pears and mostarda, a sweet jelly made from grape must. Nearby, Palagonia and Scordia are agricultural towns surrounded by orange groves.

The riding around Militello is good. The roads through the hills toward Caltagirone, famous for its ceramics and its staircase decorated with tiles, and toward the Monti Iblei, the plateau of south-eastern Sicily, are winding and scenic, with views over the orange groves and Etna. The roads to Palazzolo Acreide and the Pantalica gorge, with its prehistoric rock tombs, are also good. The surfaces vary, with potholes and broken sections common in rural areas. Sicilian drivers can be unpredictable, so ride defensively. Summer is hot, but the hills are cooler.

Militello has fuel and food, and Catania, about forty kilometres away, has everything. Local food includes arancini, cannoli, and pasta alla Norma, with aubergine and ricotta salata. Spring, when the orange blossom fills the air, is the best time to visit.

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