The Divide is the low point in the mountains where the road finally gets over, and it is more modest than the name suggests. At about 530 metres above sea level, the saddle is the lowest pass across the Southern Alps, and it marks the watershed between rivers flowing east and those flowing west to the fiords. A small car park here is the trailhead for the Routeburn, Greenstone and Key Summit tracks, and it is full of hikers with boots and packs, drinking tea from flasks.
From here the landscape changes. Beyond the saddle the forest thickens, the walls of the valley steepen and the road heads north toward the Hollyford, the Homer Tunnel and the fiords. The mountains are bigger and sharper, the rock is bare and grey, and waterfalls tumble from every ledge after rain. The air has a sharp, cold, mineral scent, and clouds often tear across the peaks, revealing and hiding them in quick succession.
The riding becomes more serious. The road climbs toward the tunnel through a series of bends, with steep walls on one side and a drop on the other, and in winter the upper sections need chains and care, as avalanche risk is real. The surface can be wet and shaded, so ride within your limits and keep your distance from the vehicle in front. Rockfall and debris sometimes lie on the road, and the weather can close in rapidly, bringing rain, sleet or snow even in summer.
The Divide and the nearby Key Summit are also places of geological interest. From the summit, accessible by a steep walking track, three major valleys can be seen, draining to different coasts, and the alpine vegetation of tussock, mountain daisies and tiny cushion plants is a delight. The kea, the world's only alpine parrot, lives in this area, and is famous for its curiosity and its appetite for rubber and leather, so do not leave gloves or bike parts unattended.
Fill up at Te Anau before setting out, and carry a warm layer and waterproofs. Sandflies are present, so repellent is wise. Allow time to stretch with a short walk on the track, and enjoy the fresh mountain air before the final push.