In the middle of the Milford Road the world becomes a valley of beech trees. The air is clean and cool, and the light is soft, especially early in the morning, when mist hangs between the trees.
The valley is a place of mirrors. Small lakes lie beside the road, and on a still day they reflect the mountains with such clarity that you can hardly tell which way is up. The best known are the Mirror Lakes, a short boardwalk from the highway, where a signboard is cheerfully placed upside down so that you can read it in the water. Early morning is the best time, before the wind rises and the tour buses arrive, and the effect is wonderful.
For a rider, this section is a gift. The road runs straight and level for long stretches, with gentle bends and a good surface, giving time to look around and relax. Speed limits are low and strictly enforced, and campervans and buses often travel slowly, so overtaking opportunities are limited and caution is needed. Watch for wildlife, including deer, possums and the cheeky kea parrots, and for tourists stopped on the road to take photographs. In winter, frost and ice can linger in the shade until midday.
The beech forest is a living museum of Gondwana. Silver, red and mountain beech grow in tall stands, draped with moss and lichen, and the birdlife is rich, with tomtits, robins, bellbirds and the noisy fantail darting between trees. Mountain peaks, still bearing the scars of glaciers, rise on both sides, and in spring and early summer, waterfalls pour off the cliffs after rain. Campgrounds run by the Department of Conservation line the valley, offering a simple, quiet place to stay.
Basic toilets and picnic areas are scattered along the way, and there are few other facilities. Mobile coverage is limited or absent, so let someone know your plans. Sandflies can be fierce at the lakes, so bring repellent.