The Orobie Alps rise steeply on the southern side of the Valtellina, and this part of the valley, around Chiuro and the side valleys that drop into it, is one of the least visited corners of Lombardy.
Valtellina's terraced vineyards are a sight in themselves. Over centuries, farmers built stone walls up the steep slope to create narrow shelves for vines, and the terraces now extend for dozens of kilometres, a landscape so remarkable that it is protected as a heritage site in its own right. The grape is Nebbiolo, known locally as Chiavennasca, and the wines, with names such as Sassella and Grumello, are elegant and long-lived. Teglio, nearby, is the home of pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta cooked with cabbage, potato, butter and cheese, which is perfect after a cold ride.
The roads into the side valleys are often steep, narrow and twisty, with hairpins that climb through woods and meadows to small mountain villages. In autumn the larches turn gold and the whole slope glows, and in spring the meadows are covered with wildflowers. Surfaces can be broken by frost and rock fall, so watch for gravel on the corners, and expect cyclists, because the valley is a favourite training ground. The big names, such as the Stelvio and Mortirolo, are not far away, which makes this a fine base.
Sondrio, fourteen kilometres away, has the fuel, shops and restaurants that a rider needs. The town is the capital of the province, with a handsome old centre and a castle, and is also the place to taste bresaola, the air-dried beef that is a speciality of the valley, and bitto, a strong cheese made in the high pastures. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with clear air and good light, while in summer the valley can be very hot and the traffic heavier.