Meursault makes white wine of a style that is hard to describe except to say that people who love Chardonnay often name it as the finest. The wines are rich and round, with hazelnut, butter and a mineral spine, and they are made from grapes grown on the lower slopes of the Côte de Beaune, south of the town of Beaune. There are no grands crus here, but premiers crus such as Perrières and Genevrières have a reputation that equals many of the grands crus of other villages.
Every November, the village hosts La Paulée de Meursault, a huge lunch held on the Monday after the Hospices de Beaune auction, to which growers bring their own bottles to share with friends and guests. It is the third of the Trois Glorieuses, the three great days of Burgundy wine, and the atmosphere is one of boisterous celebration, with toasts, songs and the pouring of rare vintages. Visitors may not be invited, but the village comes alive that weekend.
The village itself is attractive without being showy. Its town hall, with a roof of glazed multicoloured tiles in the Burgundian style, stands on the main square, and the church has a tall Gothic spire that can be seen from the vineyards. A château and cellars of local growers line the lanes, and in summer, cafés set tables outside under the trees. Many of the lanes are narrow, and tourist traffic is heavy at times, so take your time.
For a rider, the Route des Grands Crus here is a gentle, undulating road, with the D974 running along the base of the slope and smaller lanes climbing between the vineyards. Surfaces are good, and the bends are easy, but the real attraction is the setting, with rows of vines in orderly stripes, limestone walls and the pale stone of the villages. In autumn the leaves turn gold and red, in spring the vines flush bright green, and in July the heat can be intense, so early morning rides are best. Cycling is popular here, and you will share the road with groups of riders on the quieter lanes. Park for tastings and keep the bike for the road. Many estates offer tastings by appointment, so ask at the local tourist office or at the cellar doors, and be prepared to buy a bottle in return.
Beaune, about seven kilometres to the north, is the nearest big town, and it has fuel, supermarkets and the famous Hôtel-Dieu, the Hospices de Beaune, a medieval almshouse with a spectacular tiled roof. Meursault itself is small but has a few restaurants and wine shops.