Mesa Lakes is a cluster of small lakes and forest cabins on the north slope of Grand Mesa, just below the rim, and it is where Coloradans go to fish, walk and avoid the summer heat. The lakes sit in hollows scooped out by ice, surrounded by spruce, fir and aspen, with meadows opening between them and the air cooler by many degrees than the valley of the Colorado River far below. There is a resort feel to the place, with a lodge, a few cabins and a campground, but it is quiet and woodsy, not busy.
The mesa has more than three hundred lakes, and these are among the easiest to reach. Anglers cast for trout from small boats and from the shore, and in morning light the water sits like glass, with mist rising slowly. Walking trails circle some of the lakes and lead into the forest, where you may see mule deer, elk and, if you are lucky, a moose, which has been reintroduced in Colorado. In summer the meadows fill with wildflowers, lupine, paintbrush and columbine, and the smell is of pine resin and warm earth. In autumn, the aspens glow yellow.
The ride from the north is a steady climb on Colorado 65 from the interstate, in a series of bends that gain height quickly and open up views across the valley. The road is paved and smooth, but narrower and slower than the main highway, with deer and sometimes cattle on the road, and rain or hail can arrive suddenly in summer afternoons. It is usually clear of snow from late spring to autumn, but check conditions, as early storms can close it. A rain jacket and a warm layer are sensible.
Facilities are simple. A lodge and small store operate in the main season, and may offer meals, but opening times vary, so do not rely on them. For fuel and supplies, Palisade and Clifton on the valley side, and Cedaredge on the southern flank, are the nearest towns of any size, and it is worth filling the tank and buying water before the climb.
Sit by a lake in the early morning if you can, and watch the light come across the water. The silence, broken only by the occasional splash of a fish, makes the climb feel worthwhile.