Mendut is the small, elegant temple that most visitors pass on their way to Borobudur, and that is a mistake. Built in the early ninth century under the Sailendra dynasty, it stands about three kilometres east of the great monument, on a straight line that also passes through the tiny Pawon temple, and scholars believe the three were connected in a ritual sequence. Each year, at the Buddhist festival of Waisak, monks walk in procession from Mendut through Pawon to Borobudur, carrying candles and chanting.
The temple itself is a square stone building on a high platform, with walls carved with reliefs of Buddhist deities and scenes from fables. The real treasure is inside. In a dim chamber sit three huge stone figures: a seated Buddha, his hands in the gesture of teaching, flanked by the bodhisattvas Avalokiteshvara and Vajrapani. They are among the finest Buddhist sculptures in Southeast Asia, serene and powerful, and the cool darkness of the chamber after the bright sunshine outside makes the encounter almost startling. Next door is a Buddhist monastery, still active, with gardens where you can sit in the shade.
The landscape is the volcanic heart of Central Java. Rice paddies, coconut palms and villages fill the plain of the Progo and Elo rivers, and the cone of Mount Merapi, one of the most active volcanoes in Indonesia, rises to the east, often smoking. To the west, the Menoreh hills form a green wall. Early morning is the best time, when the air is clear, the volcanoes are visible, and the light on the paddies is soft.
Riding in Java is an adventure. Traffic drives on the left, and the roads are crowded with motorcycles, scooters, trucks and buses, all following their own logic. Overtaking is constant, the horn is a form of communication, and patience is essential. The roads around Borobudur and Mendut are smaller and calmer, winding through villages and paddies, but watch for chickens, children and potholes. The heat and humidity are intense, and afternoon downpours are common in the rainy season, roughly from November to March.
Muntilan, seven kilometres away, has fuel, and so do the villages around Borobudur, where small roadside stalls sell petrol in bottles. Magelang and Yogyakarta are the larger towns. Eat at a warung: a plate of nasi goreng and a sweet iced tea will put you right.