Menaggio is the western door of the lake, a handsome small town with a ferry quay, a lakefront of cafes and a population that doubles with visitors in summer. It sits at the foot of the mountains on the western shore of Lake Como, opposite Bellagio and Varenna, and its position is the reason for its life: the road from Switzerland through Porlezza and Lake Lugano reaches the water here, and so does the old route along the shore from Como to Colico. Behind the town, the steep slopes rise to a ridge where the mountain paths of the Via dei Monti Lariani run along the top, giving views of the lake from above.
The story of the region is one of crossing places and borders. In the Middle Ages, this shore was part of the lands of Como, and the road along the lake, the Via Regina, was a Roman and then medieval route used by merchants and pilgrims and soldiers. Parts of it are still walkable as a path, a pleasant alternative on a rest day. The nearby Villa Carlotta, on the shore south of town, is a fine example of the lake's villas, with its famous gardens of azaleas and rhododendrons that bloom in spring.
For riders, Menaggio is an excellent base. The ride up the western shore from Como is a series of bends, tunnels and villages, with the lake glittering through the trees, but it can be slow in summer when the traffic is heavy. Northwards towards Colico the road is quieter, and the stretch past Gravedona and Domaso gives wide views over the northern end of the lake. West over the hills, the road to Porlezza and Lugano is a pleasing and twisty route, with fewer cars and good scenery. Watch for cyclists on all of these, since the lake is a favourite training ground.
The town has all the services you would expect. There are fuel stations on the main road, a supermarket, a small golf course nearby and a lively square with restaurants and gelaterie. Lunch by the lake, with a plate of risotto with perch fillets and a glass of cold white wine, is one of the pleasures of the region, and it goes down well on a hot day. The ferry service is frequent, so you can hop over to Bellagio or Varenna without much effort.
The best months are May, June and September, when the weather is warm but the lake is not crowded. In the evening, the mountains above turn pink as the sun goes down, and the water is calm.