The rivers here, the Goulburn and its tributaries, the Howqua and the Jamieson, run clear and cold from the mountains, and the pools along them are good for a dip on a hot day.
The Goulburn is the longest river in Victoria, and it rises in the Great Dividing Range north of the Yarra Ranges before flowing north-west toward the Murray. Along its upper reaches lie small settlements that started as gold-mining camps in the 1850s and are now quiet villages with pubs and camping grounds. Lake Eildon, a large reservoir built in the mid-twentieth century, backs up the river and offers swimming beaches, boating and fishing.
Swimming in the high country needs a little common sense. The water is cold even in summer, because it comes from the mountains, and the current can be strong after rain, so choose slow, shallow pools with a clear exit. Snakes, especially tiger snakes and brown snakes, live in the river banks and wet grass, and a stick tapped on the ground before sitting down is a reasonable habit. Wear sandals for slippery rocks.
The riding is lovely. Roads wind through mountain ash and messmate forest, over low saddles and along river valleys, with a good surface and plenty of bends. Many are narrow, and logging trucks use some of the forest roads, so be wary on blind corners. Wildlife is common at dusk, with kangaroos, wombats and wallabies on the road. Fog and frost can linger in the shade, so take care on cold mornings.
The nearest towns for fuel are Mansfield, a town of about five thousand, and Alexandra, with fewer, so fill the tank in either before heading in. Take water, food and a layer, and let someone know your route, since mobile coverage is patchy. On a warm afternoon the forest smells of eucalyptus and dry leaves, and the sound of cicadas is loud.