Few roads in South Africa cross the same river as many times as this one. Meiringspoort is a gorge cut by the Groot River through the Swartberg range, and the N12 follows it for about twenty-five kilometres, crossing the stream some twenty-five times on low bridges and causeways, with cliffs that rise on both sides in tilted, twisted layers of red and grey rock. The road was built in the 1880s by Thomas Bain, and the gorge takes its name from a farmer called Petrus Meiring, who lived in the area in the early nineteenth century.
The riding is a calm and enjoyable one. The road is paved and well maintained, with gentle bends and a constant change of light as the cliffs close in and open out. There are picnic spots along the way, shaded by trees, and near the middle a waterfall of around sixty metres drops from a side valley, with a viewing point and toilets. The rock strata are the great show: huge slabs have been folded and tilted until they stand on end, a reminder of the mountain-building that shaped this part of Africa.
Take care in wet weather. In 1996 a great flood tore through the gorge and washed away much of the road and its bridges, closing it for months, and flash floods remain a danger after heavy rain in the mountains. Check conditions before riding in the rainy months, and do not stop in the riverbed. Baboons are sometimes seen on the road, so keep your distance. Lorries use the route all year, as it is part of a major freight corridor, and slow vehicles may hold you up, so be patient on the bends.
The village of De Rust, a bit under ten kilometres from the southern end, has fuel and refreshments, and Oudtshoorn, about forty kilometres away, is the large town with everything else. There are no services in the gorge itself except for the picnic areas, so bring what you need. Early morning is the best time, with fewer lorries and soft light on the cliffs, and the ride through takes less than an hour, though most riders spend longer, stopping to look and listen.