Medeu is a big, white, somewhat surreal sports arena in a mountain valley. At about 1,700 metres above sea level, in the Zailiysky Alatau gorge just above Almaty, it holds one of the highest outdoor speed-skating rinks in the world, opened in the Soviet era in the early 1950s. Thin air and hard, fast ice made the rink famous, and many world records were set here over the decades. A long staircase climbs beside the arena, a good test for riders who have been sitting down all day.
Just below it, you can see a large earthen dam. That structure, built in the 1960s, was constructed to protect Almaty from mudflows, called sel in Russian, which have repeatedly threatened the city. A huge flow in the early twentieth century had done terrible damage, and engineers blasted and shaped the mountainside to create the dam. It is a strong reminder that the beautiful hills above the city are active, wet and occasionally dangerous.
The road up from Almaty climbs through the valley of the Malaya Almatinka river, with trees, apartment blocks and then forest on both sides. The surface is generally good, the bends are broad, and you will share it with buses, taxis and Sunday drivers. On weekends and holidays it becomes a slow, crowded procession, so a weekday morning or evening suits a motorcycle far better. In cold weather, ice can linger on shaded corners long after the city has thawed. Parking for bikes is usually easy at the lower lots, but check the signs.
Medeu is the gateway to the high country: the road continues up to Shymbulak, and cable cars and trails lead higher still. The air is fresh and smells of spruce and cold water. There are cafes and small stands for tea, snacks and shashlik, but fuel is a matter for Almaty, about fifteen kilometres below, so start with a full tank. The place is lovely in autumn, when the hills are red and gold, and in winter, when skaters circle under snowy peaks. In summer, bring a jacket anyway, because shade comes with a chill.