On the south bank of the Danube, just where the river leaves the Wachau gorge and swings out onto the plain, the Romans built a fort called Favianis, and its successor, the town of Mautern, still has the pattern of the Roman streets. The fort was part of the Danube frontier, and in the fifth century, when the empire was crumbling, it became famous because of a monk named Severinus, who came here to help the population and negotiate with the barbarian kings. His life, written by a disciple, is one of the few detailed accounts of life on the Danube at the end of Roman rule.
Parts of the Roman wall and a tower are still visible, and a small museum has finds from the site. Across the bridge is Krems, and upriver is Stein, a pretty medieval town, with the gorge of the Wachau beginning beyond. The Wachau is a World Heritage landscape, listed in 2000, of terraced vineyards, apricot orchards and ruined castles, and it is known for its crisp white wines, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, and for its apricots, which turn up in jam, schnapps and dumplings.
Riding in the Wachau is a delight, though one that needs a bit of care. The road along the river, the B3, is narrow and winding, with tight bends, a lot of tourists and a lot of cyclists, so keep to a modest pace. In spring, the apricot trees blossom in late March and April and the valley is white and pink, and in late summer the vineyards are green and heavy with grapes. Cooler mornings are best, and midsummer afternoons can be crowded. The steep road up to the Jauerling, the highest hill in the area, gives more space and views.
Fuel is easy at Krems and at the edge of Mautern, and the towns have bakeries and cafes. Local wine estates, called Heurigen or Weingüter, often have simple food and a terrace, and a rider can enjoy the view with a glass of apricot juice. Ferries across the Danube, such as the one at Spitz, are a pleasant way to switch banks, but check the timetable first.