In the fifth century, as Roman authority along the Danube collapsed, a holy man named Severinus lived at a place called Favianis, organising food supplies, ransoming captives and negotiating with barbarian kings on behalf of the remaining Roman population. His biography, written by his disciple Eugippius, is one of the most vivid accounts of the end of Roman rule in central Europe, and Favianis is generally identified with Mautern, a small town on the south bank of the Danube opposite Krems. The Roman fort here, parts of which survive in the town walls, is part of the Danube Limes World Heritage listing.
Mautern sits at the eastern end of the Wachau, where the Danube valley opens out, and above it on a hill stands the huge Benedictine abbey of Göttweig, a Baroque complex that dominates the landscape and offers sweeping views over the valley. Across the river, Krems and its neighbour Stein are old wine towns with narrow streets, Gothic churches and Renaissance houses, and the vineyards on the terraces around them produce excellent Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
The roads here make the most of the river. The south bank road west into the Wachau is quieter than its counterpart on the north bank, and the climb to Göttweig is a pleasant twisting run with views. South, the Dunkelsteiner Wald offers forested hills and quiet roads, while north, across the bridge to Krems, the roads climb into the Waldviertel, with tight corners and lovely scenery. Traffic is moderate, but watch out for cyclists along the river.
Mautern has a filling station and a few shops, and Krems, just over the bridge, has everything from bike dealers to bookshops. The heurigen of the region, open only at certain times and marked by a bundle of greenery hung over the gate, serve their own wines with cold meats, spreads and bread in courtyards and gardens, and there are few nicer ways to end a day. In July the apricots arrive, and Marillenknödel, apricot dumplings rolled in buttery breadcrumbs, appear on every menu. Göttweig's terrace café has one of the best views on the Danube.