Some places in Merv are enormous and some are intimate, and this belongs to the second kind. The mausoleum of Imam Qasim is a small pilgrimage site in the oasis, a place for quiet prayer rather than spectacle, the sort of shrine that has drawn local visitors for a very long time. It sits in the broad landscape of Merv, east of the Karakum desert, within a few kilometres of the town of Bayramaly, and the contrast between the quiet shrine and the huge empty ruins nearby is a big part of its character.
For anyone arriving by motorcycle, the surroundings are the lesson. The oasis is flat, so the road is straight and unhurried, running between cotton fields, drainage channels and rows of poplar and mulberry. Further out the cultivated land stops abruptly, as if cut with a knife, and the pale desert begins. That edge is the whole story of the Murghab delta. Heat is the main challenge, with summers frequently touching forty degrees and the wind carrying fine dust, so pick the cooler months, and keep water and shade in mind. Dawn rides are magical here, with long shadows on the earth and the air still cool.
The history is deep. Islam arrived in Merv in the seventh century, when Arab armies took the city and used it as a base for pushing east. Within a few generations it became a famous centre of learning, with libraries said to hold huge numbers of books, and scholars such as the geographer Yaqut passed through before the Mongol destruction in 1221. Pilgrimage traditions grew around the tombs of holy figures, and Turkmen families still visit them to pray, tie cloths and leave small offerings. If you go, dress modestly, remove your shoes where asked, and be quiet. Photography is best done with permission.
For fuel and food, Bayramaly, a town of roughly seventy-five thousand, is the nearest dependable source, and Mary is larger still. Nothing at the shrine itself should be expected, apart perhaps from a seller of water or sweets on a busy day. Carry cash in local currency, and be prepared for checkpoints and questions along the road. A calm, patient attitude works wonders.