Maumere is where the Trans-Flores road runs out of island, or begins, depending on which way you ride. It is the biggest town in the east of Flores, a trading port with a Catholic cathedral, a busy market and a long waterfront, and the heat and humidity here hit you the moment you stop.
Coming in from Bajawa, you have ridden a long day of mountain road, with endless bends, fast descents through rice terraces and coffee plantations, and the occasional landslide patch where rain has taken a bite out of the tarmac. The surface can be rough, with potholes, loose gravel and livestock on the road, so speed is never your friend. Maumere itself is flat and chaotic, full of motorbikes, minibuses and bemos, and the last few kilometres are slower than the rest of the day.
The town is also known for a disaster. In December 1992 an earthquake and tsunami devastated the north coast of Flores, killing thousands and wiping out villages along the shore, and the memory is still strong. The area is known for its weaving, too. Sikka, a village a short ride east, is famous for its ikat cloth, hand-dyed in rich reds and browns with patterns that vary from village to village, and weavers will often show their work if you stop. Catholicism arrived with the Portuguese, and the Easter processions in Larantuka, further east, are among the most important in Indonesia.
Fuel is no problem in Maumere, with several stations, and it is wise to fill up before heading anywhere else, as villages along the road may only sell petrol from bottles. Warungs along the waterfront serve grilled fish, rice and vegetables at low prices, and fresh coconut water is available on nearly every corner. The coast around the town has beaches with coral reefs, popular with divers, and the sunset over the water is reliable.
Keep an eye on the weather. The wet season, roughly December to March, can bring heavy rain and landslides, and the dry months are far better for riding.