Matatiele sits on the South African side of the Drakensberg, in the far north-east of the Eastern Cape, and it is a small, tidy farming town in a land of rolling grass hills. The name comes from Sesotho and is usually translated as the ducks have flown away, a reference to the wetlands nearby, which attract waterbirds and cranes, including the endangered wattled crane. The Cape Drakensberg rises to the north-west, with snow in winter and wide views across the plateau, and the town sits at about 1,500 metres, so evenings are cool.
The region is a cross-border one. Lesotho lies a short distance to the west, and the town of Qacha's Nek, the border post and a small administrative centre, is about twenty-eight kilometres away, on the other side of the line. The two places are linked by a road that climbs steadily into the mountains, with the border crossing at a high saddle, and many of the people on either side are Basotho, so you will hear Sesotho and see the blankets and conical hats. Farms around Matatiele raise cattle and sheep, apples and timber, and the area has long been a quiet backwater.
On the bike, the ride to Qacha's Nek is a classic border route. The road is narrow, with bends and gradients, surfaces vary and conditions change, so ask locally, and the final approach to the border post, set at high altitude, brings great views over the Lesotho highlands, though mist and cold are a regular feature. Livestock on the road and sudden rain can make for slow going, and the gravel roads in Lesotho beyond demand more care. Allow time for the border, with passports, vehicle papers and sometimes a temporary import permit, and keep copies of everything.
Matatiele has fuel stations, shops, banks and a few guesthouses and cafés, and it is a sensible place to prepare for the mountains. The best months for riding are autumn and spring, with clear skies and dry roads, and the grass is golden in winter, with snow on the high peaks. Stock up on water and snacks, and fill the tank before crossing, since fuel in the Lesotho highlands is limited. A pie and a cup of coffee at a local café is a good way to start the day.