Mataram is the capital of Lombok, the island east of Bali across a deep and swift strait, and it is a much quieter and more traditional place than its famous neighbour. The Sasak people, who make up most of the island's population, are mainly Muslim, and the sound of the call to prayer is as much a part of the day as the roar of scooters. The city is a bright, spread-out collection of markets, government buildings and long avenues, with a couple of notable temples, such as Pura Meru, built in the eighteenth century by a Balinese king who ruled the western part of the island.
The big feature of the island is Mount Rinjani, a volcano that rises to more than three and a half thousand metres and fills the northern horizon, often with a cap of cloud. Its crater holds a lake and a smaller cone, and trekkers set out from villages on its flanks to climb it. Visible from almost everywhere, it gives the island its character. Sasak villages with thatched roofs and woven bamboo walls can be visited in the countryside, and weaving is a living craft.
Riders will find a well-loved loop. From Mataram, the road runs north along the coast through Senggigi, where the sea is a deep turquoise, then loops inland on mountain roads through forests and past waterfalls. The south coast, around Kuta Lombok, has a spectacular coastline of white sand beaches and green headlands, and near it the new Mandalika circuit has hosted MotoGP. The roads in the south are generally good, but the central roads can be rough with potholes, and cattle, dogs and children wander freely. In the wet season, from November to March, rain can be heavy.
Fuel is easy in Mataram, a city of several hundred thousand people, and there are stations along the main roads. In remote areas it is wise to top up before you go. Food is a pleasure, with fiery chicken dishes in the local style and fresh fish. The best months are May to September.