The Monegros in high summer is the closest thing Europe has to a desert, a wide, dry plateau of gypsum hills, wheat stubble and steppe scrub under a hard, white sky. Near the village of Candasnos, close to the main road between Zaragoza and Lleida, the shelter labelled Mas de Torres is one of the rock art sites of the Mediterranean Basin listed by UNESCO, a reminder that people lived and hunted here long before the land dried out to its present state.
The steppe is far from lifeless. It is home to rare birds such as the Dupont's lark, the little bustard and the sandgrouse, and in spring the plains are carpeted with wildflowers. Near Bujaraloz lie the saladas, shallow salt lagoons that fill after rain and dry to white crusts in summer, a strange and beautiful sight. To the south, the Ebro has been dammed into a huge reservoir at Mequinenza, known as the Sea of Aragón, where anglers come for giant catfish, and the town of Caspe is remembered for the Compromise of Caspe of 1412, when representatives chose a new king for the Crown of Aragón.
For riders, the Monegros means long straight roads, wide horizons and very little traffic, with occasional gentle curves and climbs onto the plateau edges. The A-2 motorway and the old N-II cross the region, with large truck stops and service areas at Candasnos and Bujaraloz, while side roads lead to quiet villages and the Ebro valley. Heat in summer is intense, often well above forty degrees, and the cierzo wind can blow hard across the plains, pushing bikes around on exposed stretches. Winter brings cold, fog and occasional frost.
Fuel is available at the service areas along the main road, and Caspe, Fraga and other towns are within reach. The truck stops serve hearty meals at reasonable prices, and village bars offer coffee and sandwiches. Local cuisine features lamb, the famous Ternasco de Aragón, as well as migas and roasted vegetables. Carry water and sun protection, and if you visit the shelters, check access arrangements in advance.