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Mas d'En Llort

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Montblanc is one of those small Catalan towns that still has its medieval walls, and the Mas d'en Llort label lies a few kilometres from it in the Conca de Barberà, a basin of vineyards and wheat fields ringed by low, scrubby mountains. A mas is a farmhouse, so the spot is probably a rural building or a field track rather than anything with a name on the map, and what you are really riding into is the countryside around it.

The district has a deep history. Shallow rock shelters in the surrounding hills were painted by prehistoric people, and Catalonia's share of that Levantine rock art is protected as part of a UNESCO group of sites. Many of the paintings are small, red, and hard to find without a guide, and the shelters are fragile, so look for local information in Montblanc before you go wandering. Montblanc itself carries the legend of Saint George and the dragon, which the town claims for its own, and each April the old streets fill up with stalls and costumes around Sant Jordi's day. Ten kilometres south, the Cistercian monastery of Poblet, begun in the twelfth century and a royal burial place, is one of the finest medieval monasteries in Spain.

The roads here are easy and rural. The C-14 and the smaller roads towards Vimbodí and Prades twist up through oak and pine, with views over terraced hillsides and lots of slow, satisfying bends. Prades, in the mountains to the south, is a stone village with a big arcaded square and cool air in summer. Traffic is light outside the weekend, though tractors move slowly at harvest, and in October the vineyards turn red and gold.

Montblanc has just over six thousand people and is the place for fuel, a coffee, and a meal. Wine from the Conca de Barberà is the local pride, and the area makes much of the base wine for cava, so cellars and cooperatives are easy to find if you want to taste. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with warm days and cool nights, and August can be fiercely hot in the afternoons, so ride in the morning if you come then. Carry some water if you plan to walk anywhere.

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