Marvão looks like something that should not be possible: a whole village on a granite crag, circled by walls, with a castle at the top and a drop on every side. It stands at around eight hundred and sixty metres on the Serra de São Mamede, looking out over the plains of the Alentejo to the west and Spain to the east, and it has been used as a lookout since long before the border existed. The name is said to come from Ibn Marwan, a ninth-century Muslim leader who made the rock his stronghold.
Everything is old and small. The streets are whitewashed, narrow and often steep, with stone steps, wrought iron balconies and the odd well. The castle was rebuilt several times and kept watch over the Spanish frontier for centuries, and from its walls you can trace the line of the horizon almost all the way round. Griffon vultures and storks drift past below you. In the chestnut woods on the slopes you will find mushrooms in autumn, and the area is also known for its honey and cured meats.
Getting here is half the fun. The road to the village climbs in a tight series of bends through cork oak and chestnut, with the plain opening up behind you. It is narrow, and in places steep, and the village itself has cobbles and tight turns that are better done slowly. The summer is hot, though the altitude brings some relief in the evening, and fog sometimes sits on the hill in winter. Spring brings green fields and wildflowers, while autumn offers clear air and golden light.
Marvão has under four thousand inhabitants in the municipality, so the village has a few small restaurants, cafes and guesthouses, but for a larger selection of shops and services the nearest towns are Castelo de Vide, about seven kilometres away, and Valencia de Alcántara in Spain. Castelo de Vide is worth a stop in its own right, with a well-preserved old Jewish quarter and a medieval synagogue. Take a slow walk around the walls at sunset, when the whole plain turns amber.