Martin Brod is a quiet village at the upper end of the Una, close to where Bosnia meets Croatia, and it is the place where the river first shows what it can do. Here the Una flows through a short canyon, tumbles over a series of waterfalls and passes the remains of old watermills, built beside the water so that the stream could turn the stones. Some of the mills are still standing, with wooden wheels and moss-covered roofs, and a few are in use.
The village is small and rural, with a handful of houses, a monastery church and a bridge over the river. The Orthodox monastery of Martin Brod stands on the bank, a modest complex with a simple church that reflects the long Serbian Orthodox presence in the region. Its quiet cloister and garden are a gentle place to rest, and visitors are welcome if they are respectful and cover their shoulders and knees. The surrounding landscape is wooded karst, with limestone rocks, caves and sinkholes, and the river often disappears underground and re-emerges elsewhere.
The ride to Martin Brod is a long, quiet backroad from Bihać or from the south, and it is more of an exploration than a speed run. The surface varies, from reasonable asphalt to patches of broken tarmac, and sections of the road are narrow, with blind corners and livestock. The bends are open and sometimes rough, and the scenery is beautiful, with the river in the valley and the forested hills above. Traffic is almost non-existent, so you can take your time.
The region has a complicated history. During the war of 1992 to 1995, the upper Una valley was a front line, and the villages suffered heavily. Many people left, and the population is still low, so the sense of emptiness that you feel is a result of that history as well as the rural economy. Warnings about landmines are still posted in some areas, and it is essential to stay on roads and established paths.
Services are very limited. Orašac is about sixteen kilometres away and Bosansko Grahovo, a larger town about thirty-nine kilometres from here, is the practical place for fuel and supplies. Bihać is farther but offers much more. Carry cash and water, and plan your fuel carefully. A coffee in a village cafe, if one is open, will be strong, sweet and unhurried.