In Haman county, in the south of Korea, a long ridge rises above the town of Gaya, and along its crest lies a line of large burial mounds, grassy domes that seem to ripple across the hills. These are the Malisan, or Marisan, tumuli, the royal tombs of Ara Gaya, one of the states of the Gaya confederacy that flourished in the south of the Korean peninsula from roughly the first to the sixth century. In 2023, they were listed by UNESCO together with other Gaya tumuli across the region.
Gaya was a confederation of small kingdoms, famous for its ironwork and trade with China and Japan, before it was absorbed by the kingdom of Silla in the sixth century. Excavations in the tombs have revealed iron armour, weapons, horse gear and pottery, as well as evidence of human sacrifice, and a museum at the foot of the ridge displays many of the finds. A path runs along the crest among the mounds, with views across the town and the surrounding rice fields, and it is especially beautiful at sunset, when the low light picks out the shapes of the tombs.
Riding in Korea means avoiding expressways, which are closed to motorcycles, and using national and local roads, which are generally in good condition but can be busy around towns. The countryside around Haman is a mix of rice paddies, greenhouses, forested hills and small towns, with gentle curves and occasional climbs. The coastal areas to the south, around Changwon, Tongyeong and Namhae, offer more scenic roads, with islands, bridges and views of the sea.
The town of Gaya in Haman has fuel, shops and restaurants, and larger cities like Changwon and Jinju are within easy reach. Korean food is a highlight: try bibimbap, a mixed rice dish with vegetables and egg, or a meal of grilled pork belly with side dishes, the banchan, which always arrive in generous numbers. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, while summers are hot and humid and winters cold.