The town of Margaret River sits among tall forests in the far south-west corner of Western Australia, about three hours south of Perth, and it is the heart of one of Australia's best-known wine regions. Vines were planted here in the late 1960s, after scientists reckoned the climate resembled Bordeaux, and the cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays that followed made the place famous. Today around seven and a half thousand people live in town, and the main street has the relaxed feel of a place where winemakers, surfers and holidaymakers all mix.
The land is a long narrow ridge called the Leeuwin-Naturaliste, running between two capes, Naturaliste in the north and Leeuwin in the south, with the Indian Ocean on one side and the Southern Ocean sweeping in on the other. Beneath it are limestone caves, among them Jewel, Lake and Mammoth, and above are tuart, jarrah and karri trees, the last growing to astonishing heights, some over sixty metres. The wild coast has famous surf breaks, and between September and December, whales pass close by.
The ride along Caves Road is the main event. The road runs through the forest and vineyards, with tall trees overhead and wide shade that makes summer riding pleasant. It twists in gentle bends rather than anything dramatic, the surface is generally good, and speeds are low, partly because kangaroos, emus and cars pulling out of winery driveways keep you honest. Dusk and dawn are the times when animals wander onto the road. Spring brings wildflowers, and autumn gives clear, calm days. Winter is wet and cool, and storms can drag in from the south.
Services are easy here. Margaret River has fuel, supermarkets, bakeries and an abundance of cafes, and there are breweries and chocolate makers along the roads outside town. Fuel is available at only a few spots in the smaller towns, such as Cowaramup, so keep the tank topped. If you plan to go on to Pemberton and the karri forests, give yourself extra time, because the roads there are narrower and the logging trucks are big. Wineries are a lovely place for lunch, but remember that drink-driving laws are strict and police do run tests on the roads in the region.