The Margaree is a river that salmon fishermen talk about in low voices. It rises in the highlands of Cape Breton and flows through a green valley before reaching the sea at Margaree Harbour, a small fishing community on the west coast of the island, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The valley was settled by Scottish and Acadian families, and the mix of Gaelic and French names shows in the villages along the way.
The Cabot Trail is the reason riders come here, and the stretch from Baddeck through the Margaree valley to the coast is the gentle opening of the loop. The road follows the river through farms and woodland, with long curves, a smooth surface and quiet traffic, and then meets the sea at the harbour, where the wind comes off the water with salt on it. Beyond it the road climbs north toward Cheticamp and the high plateau of the national park, where the real drama starts.
There is not much to the harbour itself: a few houses, a wharf, boats, a beach. Fiddle music runs deep in this part of Cape Breton, and you may find a ceilidh in a hall or a pub in the evening if you are there at the right time. Lobster boats work the waters in season, and you can often find a lobster supper or a bowl of chowder, ideal after a day of riding.
There are no big towns nearby, so plan for fuel in Baddeck, Cheticamp or Inverness, and carry what you need. The weather can change fast, with sea fog and cold wind even in summer. The best time is late June to early October, and the autumn colours in the highlands, in the first half of October, draw crowds from all over. Wear layers, and take your time.