Out in the Karakum, the great black-sand desert that covers most of Turkmenistan, the old caravan route between Merv and Amul on the Amu Darya crossed some two hundred kilometres of sand, and along it, at intervals of a day's march, stood caravanserais where travellers could rest, water their animals and find shelter. The ruins of the Mansaf caravanserai lie on this route, a crumbling square of brick walls and gateways in an empty landscape of dunes and saxaul shrubs. They are part of the Silk Roads heritage of Central Asia, and the corridor is on Turkmenistan's list of sites proposed for UNESCO recognition.
Caravanserais like Mansaf were built from the eleventh century onwards, often by rulers wanting to promote trade, and their layout was standard: a courtyard surrounded by rooms for travellers, stables for camels and horses, and sometimes a mosque, all enclosed within thick walls with a single gateway. The Karakum is a harsh environment, with summer temperatures well over forty-five degrees and winter nights below freezing, and nearby, the Repetek reserve protects the desert ecosystem, with its sand dunes, saxaul forests and wildlife adapted to the extreme conditions.
Riding in Turkmenistan is tightly controlled. Foreign visitors need a visa, which can be difficult to obtain, and independent travel is often restricted, so most trips are organised through local agencies with a guide. Bringing your own motorcycle involves significant paperwork. The main road between Mary and Türkmenabat, which follows the old caravan route, is paved but can be in poor condition, with long straight stretches across the desert, sand drifts and occasional checkpoints. Distances between services are long.
Fuel is cheap in Turkmenistan, but stations can be few and far between in the desert, so fill up in Mary or Türkmenabat and carry extra. Food is simple and hearty: plov, shashlik, chorek bread baked in clay ovens, and sweet melons, which are celebrated with a national holiday. Carry plenty of water, sun protection and warm clothes for desert nights, and respect the rules of your guide and local authorities.