Manchester-by-the-Sea is a small town on Massachusetts's North Shore, a place of about five thousand people on the southern flank of Cape Ann, and it has the look of a New England postcard. White clapboard houses, a harbour full of small boats and a stone-walled park on the waterfront give it a tidy, old-fashioned charm. The town was called Manchester until 1989, when residents added the words by-the-Sea to avoid confusion with the New Hampshire city, and the 2016 film that borrowed the name made it known around the world.
The beach is the main attraction. Singing Beach, a long crescent of fine sand at the end of a quiet road, gets its name from the squeaking sound that the sand makes underfoot when it is dry. It is a lovely place at any time, but access for non-residents is limited, with a small parking fee and few spaces, so arrive early or take the train. The town was once a centre of cabinet making, and its summer residents built grand houses and gardens along the shore, with views of the sea and the islands.
Riding here is a matter of pace. Route 127 runs along the coast from Beverly to Gloucester, past granite outcrops, stone walls, tidal creeks and glimpses of the open sea. The road is narrow and winding, with tight corners, blind crests and little room for error. Traffic can be heavy on summer weekends, and cyclists and pedestrians crowd the shoulder. The reward is a series of views that change with every bend, with the Atlantic in the distance and the light that painters have loved for two centuries. Autumn is lovely, with the maples turning and the air clear and cold.
Manchester has a small centre with shops, cafés and a general store, but fuel is limited, so it is wise to fill up in Beverly or Gloucester, which both have several stations. Beverly Cove has a larger population and more services, and Essex, a little to the north, is known for its fried clams and antique shops. Plan for slow going, take time to look around, and be ready for fog, which rolls in off the sea without warning and cools the air quickly.