Managua is not an obvious beauty, and Nicaraguans will tell you so before you do. It lies on the southern shore of Lake Xolotlán, with the cone of the Momotombo volcano rising across the water, and its centre was destroyed by an earthquake in December 1972 that killed thousands. The old downtown was never rebuilt, and today the city sprawls in low neighbourhoods, with open lots, new roundabouts and the old cathedral standing cracked and empty as a reminder.
Several landmarks hold the story together. The Loma de Tiscapa, a hill over a crater lagoon, carries a huge silhouette of Sandino, the guerrilla leader who fought American occupation in the 1920s and 1930s, and the Palacio Nacional, with its neoclassical columns, houses a museum. The poet Rubén Darío, the father of modernist poetry in Spanish, is Nicaragua's national hero, and the national theatre bears his name. Managua is warm all year, and the rainy season from May to October brings heavy afternoon downpours.
Outside the city, the riding becomes better. To the south-east lie the Masaya volcano, where you can drive up to the rim of a smoking crater, and the colonial city of Granada beside Lake Nicaragua, with its yellow cathedral and painted houses. Laguna de Apoyo, a crater lake of warm blue water, is perfect for a swim. Northwest, the road leads toward León and the ruins of León Viejo, the first Spanish capital, abandoned after an earthquake and eruption in 1610 and buried under ash until excavation.
Traffic in Managua is chaotic, with buses, taxis, motorbikes and pedestrians, so ride defensively. Streets often lack names, and addresses are given by landmarks. Fuel is easy to find, and a plate of gallo pinto, rice and beans, with fried cheese and plantains, is a cheap breakfast. Keep valuables out of sight and park the bike in a guarded lot at night. The warmth of the people more than makes up for the city's plain face.