Around 1,050 metres up, the East-West Highway crosses the spine of the peninsula, the Titiwangsa Range, which divides Perak from Kelantan and the west coast from the east. Up here the forest is dense and green, the air is cool and damp, and the views stretch over endless forested ridges with no sign of human activity, apart from the road itself. It is one of the most remote places in Peninsular Malaysia, and it feels it: no towns, no villages, just jungle and the occasional viewpoint where people stop to look.
The forest here is part of the Belum-Temenggor complex, a vast area of rainforest that extends across the border into Thailand. It is ancient, having survived the ice ages, and it is extraordinarily rich in species: all ten species of hornbills found in Malaysia live here, along with Asian elephants, Malayan tigers, tapirs, sun bears and many others. Rafflesia, the parasitic plant whose genus produces the largest single flowers in the world, blooms in the forest at certain times of the year, and local guides can sometimes take visitors to see it.
The road at this height is all curves and gradients, a series of long climbs and descents through the forest, with good asphalt and wide lanes. It is a joy to ride, but there are hazards: fog, which can reduce visibility to a few metres; rain, which can be torrential and turns the road slippery; and wildlife, especially elephants, which use the road to move between parts of the forest. Signs warn of elephant crossings, and there have been collisions, mostly at night. There are also landslides after heavy rain, so watch for debris.
There are no services here, apart from the occasional roadside stall selling drinks and snacks. The nearest fuel is in Gerik, behind you on the Perak side, or Jeli, ahead on the Kelantan side, and the Thai town of Betong is the nearest large settlement, though not reachable directly from here. Make sure you have enough fuel and water before you start the crossing, and plan to do it in daylight. A stop at one of the viewpoints, with the forest stretching away into the mist, is the best reward for the effort.