Danghara is a small town in the Khatlon region of southern Tajikistan, best known in the country as the home town of the president, Emomali Rahmon, and the road to it is accordingly one of the better ones in the region. The town lies in a broad valley surrounded by low, bare hills, with fields of cotton and wheat watered by irrigation canals. The Makbarai Mavlono Tojiddin, a mausoleum near the town, is a local shrine, a place of pilgrimage and prayer that belongs to the long tradition of saints' tombs across Central Asia. It is among the sites linked to the Cultural Heritage of Ancient Khuttal, the medieval principality that once flourished in this region and that Tajikistan has proposed for UNESCO listing.
Khuttal was an important region in the early Islamic period, a crossroads on routes between Bactria, Sogdiana and the lands to the south, and its towns, fortresses and Buddhist and Islamic monuments are still being explored by archaeologists. Nearby, the ruins of Khishttepa, a Buddhist temple, and Shahrtepa, a fortified settlement, hint at the area's long and layered history. Visiting the mausoleum, dress modestly, remove your shoes where expected and be respectful of those praying.
The riding is a mix of good and challenging. From Dushanbe, the main road east and south crosses the Shar-Shar pass through a long tunnel and descends into the valleys of Khatlon. The road is generally well surfaced, but traffic can be heavy, with trucks and erratic driving, and livestock on the road is common. Nearby, the Nurek reservoir, held back by one of the highest dams in the world, offers stunning views of turquoise water among bare hills, and the road along its shore is a pleasure to ride.
The climate is continental, with very hot summers, when temperatures in the valleys can be extreme, and cold winters. Spring, when the hills are briefly green and covered in flowers, and autumn, when the harvest is in, are the best seasons.
Danghara, about four kilometres away, has fuel, shops and a bazaar; Norak and Dushanbe are larger centres. Fuel quality can vary, so fill up at major stations when you can. Tajik hospitality is legendary, and you may be invited for tea, bread and fruit by people you meet. Try plov, the rice dish with meat and carrots that is the centrepiece of every celebration, or qurutob, bread soaked in a sauce of dried yoghurt, topped with vegetables.