Maina is an obscure name on the map in the Murcian hills north-west of Totana, where the Sierra Espuña rises above the valley of the Guadalentín. It refers to a rock shelter or painted site in the dry limestone country, part of the cluster of prehistoric art sites around here included in the World Heritage listing of Levantine rock art. As with many such places, there is often little to see without a guide, but the landscape around it is worth the ride.
The Sierra Espuña is a green island in a dry region, a mountain range covered with pine forests that were planted in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries to stop erosion and flooding. Today it is a regional park, with walking trails, viewpoints and old snow wells, the pozos de nieve, where snow was packed into deep stone pits in winter and sold as ice in the towns during summer. The highest peaks rise to over 1,500 metres, and the views from the top stretch to the sea.
The riding is very good. The roads that climb into the Sierra Espuña from Alhama de Murcia and Totana are twisting and steep, with hairpins, good surfaces and views over the forests and valleys. The road through the park itself is narrow and requires care, but traffic is light. The surrounding countryside is dry and hilly, with almond and olive groves, and the roads between the villages are quiet and fun. Summer is very hot, so spring and autumn are best.
Totana is known for its pottery, especially large earthenware jars called tinajas, once used to store oil and wine. The sanctuary of Santa Eulalia, the town's patron saint, sits in the hills just outside town, with a church decorated with colourful frescoes. Aledo, a tiny village on a rocky spur, has a medieval tower and a strange history as a Christian outpost deep in Muslim territory during the Reconquista.
Totana, about twelve kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants. Alhama de Murcia and Lorca are larger towns nearby, with Lorca's castle and baroque churches worth a visit. Try local specialities like michirones, a spicy stew of broad beans, or a plate of grilled lamb chops with a glass of Jumilla wine.