The Main Range is the wall behind the Scenic Rim, a long line of old volcanic cliffs and ridges that runs along the border between south-east Queensland and New South Wales. It is what remains of a huge volcano that erupted more than twenty million years ago, and the rocks have been eroded into steep escarpments, gorges and waterfalls, with the high points, such as Mount Superbus, reaching nearly fourteen hundred metres. The national park protects dry eucalypt forest on the lower slopes and cool, damp rainforest higher up, with ancient Antarctic beech trees and giant tree ferns that belong to the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, listed by UNESCO in 1986.
The wildlife is generous. Koalas, wallabies, pademelons, brush turkeys and lyrebirds live here, and early in the morning you may see kangaroos grazing at the edge of the forest. Walking tracks lead to lookouts and waterfalls, and the air smells of eucalyptus and wet leaves.
For riders, the main attraction is Cunningham's Gap, the pass through the range that carries the Cunningham Highway between Brisbane and the inland plains. It was found by the explorer Allan Cunningham in 1828, and still has a thrilling sequence of bends, with views over the valley from the lookouts. Trucks and caravans use it, so watch for slow vehicles, and fog and rain can reduce visibility. Spicers Gap Road is an alternative, partly unsealed, and can be closed after heavy rain, so check conditions.
Laidley, a town of nearly four thousand, has fuel and cafes, and Kalbar, smaller still, has a good bakery. Fill up before the climb, because the park has no services. The rides in this region connect with Lamington National Park, to the south, where the roads wind through bush to guesthouses and tree-top walks.
Spring and autumn are lovely, with mild days and wildflowers, and summers are hot and stormy. Winters can be cold at altitude, with frost and occasional snow on the highest peaks. Take a thermos, because the picnic tables at the lookouts are made for it.