The main complex at Mahabalipuram is a stone anthology of Pallava art, set between a low granite hill and the Bay of Bengal. Its centrepiece is the Shore Temple, built in the early eighth century under King Rajasimha, a pair of slim, tapering towers of weathered granite that stand almost at the water's edge. Sea winds have rounded the carvings, and in the morning light the temple looks like a sandcastle that has been left to harden for thirteen centuries. It survived the tsunami of 2004, when the sea drew back and exposed more ancient structures on the sand.
Not far inland, a huge rock face carries the relief known as Arjuna's Penance, or the Descent of the Ganges, a panel some twenty metres long crowded with gods, elephants, monkeys, hunters and ascetics, all carved with astonishing liveliness. Nearby, a vast round boulder called Krishna's Butter Ball rests on a slope as though it were about to roll away, though it has stayed in place for ages, and local children slide down the rock beside it. The five Rathas, carved from single blocks and named after the Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata, form another highlight.
The site is a UNESCO World Heritage listing, with entry charged and set opening hours. The town of Mahabalipuram, with about 12,000 people, wraps around it, and has guesthouses, cafés and seafood restaurants, as well as shops selling stone carvings. Fuel is available on the main road, but not in the old streets. Traffic and parking are manageable, though weekends bring crowds from Chennai, who arrive in buses and cars.
The best time is early morning or late afternoon, when the light is warm and the heat is bearable. In the cooler months, from November to February, the sea breeze is kind. Wander slowly, as the monuments are scattered, and take a break in the shade. The carvings reward patience, and the Shore Temple, seen from the beach at sunset, stays in the memory.