Mahaxay is a small town in Khammouane province, in central Laos, about forty kilometres east of Thakhek, and it lies on the edge of one of the great limestone landscapes of South-East Asia. Vertical grey cliffs, covered with green vegetation, rise from flat rice fields and rivers, forming a jagged wall of karst towers. The scenery has a dreamlike quality, particularly in the early morning when mist hangs between the peaks and water buffalo wade in the paddies.
The Thakhek Loop is a popular motorbike route that circles through these hills, and Mahaxay is one of its natural stops, with a few guesthouses, noodle shops and a small market. The nearby area contains caves, including Tham Xang, the elephant cave, and the huge limestone caverns of the Hin Boun River, where boats are able to travel underground. Farther north is the Kong Lor cave, a river cave several kilometres long that you can pass through by boat, and one of the most remarkable sights in Laos.
The history here is sobering. During the Vietnam War, Laos was heavily bombed by the United States, and Khammouane province, which lay on the Ho Chi Minh Trail, was one of the worst affected areas. Unexploded bombs remain in the fields, and local people continue to live with the danger. Stay on established tracks and never touch metal objects. Many villages have been rebuilt, and the people are friendly and welcoming.
The road from Thakhek, Route 12, is mostly paved, with some rough patches and plenty of trucks heading to the Vietnam border, so ride carefully. The best season is from November to February, when the weather is cool and dry, while the monsoon from May to October brings heavy rain, flooding and mud. March and April are very hot and hazy.
Fill your tank in Thakhek before heading out, as fuel stops in smaller towns can be limited, and carry cash in kip. Sticky rice, grilled fish and fresh herbs are the local staples, and a cold Beerlao is the traditional end to the day.