Magoksa sits in a fold of Taehwasan mountain in South Chungcheong, a short drive from the old Baekje capital of Gongju, and it is the sort of temple that makes a good argument for getting out of the car. A stream runs beside the approach, maples and zelkova trees close overhead, and the main buildings sit within a double compound, one for monks and one for the Buddha. Its tradition goes back to the seventh century, though most of the present wooden halls are much younger, and its five-storey stone pagoda with a metal finial on top is unusual, since the top part shows Tibetan influence, possibly from the Yuan dynasty.
It is one of seven mountain monasteries listed by UNESCO in 2018 as Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries in Korea, which were chosen because they are still living places of practice, not museums. The monks still chant at dawn and dusk, and visitors can join a temple stay for a night or two, sleeping on the floor and eating simple vegetarian meals. A path leads up through the forest behind the temple, and in autumn the maples glow red and orange.
Gongju is a town of more than seventy thousand, with fuel and cafes, and it has its own history, with the tomb of King Muryeong, one of the great finds of Korean archaeology, found intact in 1971. Yesan, another thirty-odd kilometres to the north-west, is apple country, and is also close to the temple of Sudeoksa. Both give you good places to eat and refuel before heading into the hills.
The riding is calm. Roads in this part of Korea wander through rice fields, orchards and low wooded hills, with views of small villages and farmhouses, few trucks outside harvest, and a road surface in good condition. Bends are mild, and the speed limits are strict, with cameras at regular intervals, so keep an eye on the signs. The Geum river flows past Gongju, and its banks are lovely for a late afternoon walk.
Come in spring for the new leaves or in October and early November for the maples. In summer it is hot, wet and buzzing with cicadas, and in winter the road may be icy. Arrive early to avoid the buses, and bring a small coin for the donation box.