Mae Rim is the northern gate of Chiang Mai, a sprawling town about fifteen kilometres from the old city, where the Ping river valley narrows and the hills begin. The Mae Sa valley runs west from here, and it holds waterfalls, orchid farms, butterfly houses and elephant camps, as well as a road that winds up through the forest toward the Samoeng loop. It is the sort of place that tourists find in a day and riders find for a lifetime.
For riders, Mae Rim is the start of something big. Highway 107 runs north toward Chiang Dao and the Burmese border, and farther on, Highway 1095 branches off toward Pai and Mae Hong Son, a long mountain route that has become famous for its endless bends. Riders talk about the Mae Hong Son loop in hundreds of curves, and the numbers are no exaggeration. Fuel is plentiful here, with big stations along the main road and plenty of small shops, but stations become farther apart once you climb, so it is best to fill up before you head into the hills.
Chiang Mai itself was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai as capital of the Lanna kingdom, and the old city still has its moat and brick walls, with temples at every turn. The food of the north is distinct from that of Bangkok, with khao soi, a curry noodle soup topped with crispy noodles, as the signature dish. Sai oua, a spicy herbal sausage, and sticky rice are staples, and a bowl of khao soi at a roadside stall makes a fine breakfast before the climb.
The climate matters. From November to February, the air is cool and dry, and the mornings can be cold in the hills. From March to May, smoke from agricultural burning fills the valleys with haze, and the air can be unpleasant. The rainy season, from June to October, brings green hills, but also landslides and slippery roads. Choose your season with care.
Check the bike, fill the tank, eat well and go early. The hills are waiting.