There are roads that lead somewhere, and there is the Denali Highway, which mostly leads to itself. Maclaren Summit, at 1,245 metres, is the high point of the route, about halfway along a hundred-odd miles of mostly gravel between Paxson and Cantwell. It is the second highest highway pass in Alaska. Up here the land is open tundra rolling off to the horizon, with the Alaska Range lined up along the south like a wall, and the Maclaren Glacier tucked into the mountains beyond the river. On a clear day the horizon seems to go on for ever, and it is quite likely there will be nobody else in sight.
The road was opened in 1957 and for years was the only way to get to Denali National Park by car, until the Parks Highway came through in 1972. After that the Denali Highway slipped into quiet obscurity and became something between a backcountry adventure and an endurance test. Today most of it is unpaved. The surface can be smooth, rutted, rocky or muddy depending on the latest grader and the weather, and washboard can shake a loaded bike loose. Carry a repair kit, a spare tube if you have a tubed wheel, and enough patience. Nobody is in a hurry here. Speeds are low, and the scenery is the reward.
Wildlife is the other attraction. Caribou herd across the tundra in late summer, moose stand in the ponds, and ptarmigan scatter from the roadside. The light in the evening is long and golden, and the first frost turns the tundra a dazzling red and orange in late August and early September. Mosquitoes in the early summer can be savage, so bring a head net.
Fuel needs real planning. There is none at the summit, and few services anywhere along the highway: Paxson, at the eastern end, and Cantwell at the western end have fuel, and a couple of lodges along the way may sell some, though hours and supplies vary. Fill every tank and consider carrying a spare can. The road is closed to ploughs in winter, and generally runs from mid-May to early October, though early snow can shut it sooner. Tell someone where you are going, because mobile signal does not exist.