Luxembourg City is built on a rock, or rather on several rocks, split by deep gorges cut by the Alzette and Pétrusse rivers. The old fortress, one of the most formidable in Europe, was dismantled after 1867, but the casemates, long tunnels cut into the cliff, survive and can be visited. The old town and fortifications are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the viewpoint along the Chemin de la Corniche, which has been called the most beautiful balcony in Europe, looks down on the valley and the old quarter of Grund. About seventy-seven thousand people live in the city proper, and it is a wealthy, multilingual, slightly formal place with a large banking sector.
For a rider, this is an easy and civilised start. Fuel is cheaper than in most neighbouring countries, which is why you will see queues of cross-border drivers at the pumps, and the roads out of the city are very well kept. The Grand Duchy is small, and within half an hour you can be among forests, fields and villages. Traffic in the city is heavy at rush hour, with commuters flowing in from France, Belgium and Germany, so leave outside those times.
The route heads northeast toward the Mullerthal, the area known as Little Switzerland, a landscape of sandstone cliffs, moss-covered boulders and beech forest. The roads here are narrow and winding, with good surfaces, gentle gradients and numerous bends that follow valleys. Luxembourg's speed enforcement is firm, with fixed cameras and patrols, and limits are lower than you might expect. In autumn, the forests turn gold and copper and the road surface can be wet with leaves.
Before you go, eat something. Luxembourg cuisine reflects its neighbours: judd mat gaardebounen, smoked pork collar with broad beans, is the national dish, and Bouneschlupp, a bean soup, is typical. Wine from the Moselle, particularly Riesling and crémant, is excellent and underrated. The city is a delight for walking, so give the Corniche and the old town an hour before heading out. A clear spring morning is ideal.