Lutry is where the Lavaux begins, if you come from Lausanne, and it announces the fact with vineyards that climb straight up behind the old town. The terraces, held by dry-stone walls that run for kilometres, rise from the shore of Lake Geneva to the ridge above, a staircase of green in summer and gold in autumn. They were first built by monks in the Middle Ages, and in 2007 UNESCO placed the whole landscape on its World Heritage list. Lutry itself is a lakeside town of nearly nine thousand people, with a medieval centre, a harbour and a promenade.
The old town has narrow, cobbled streets, stone houses with wooden shutters and a Romanesque church tower that rises above the roofs. Its priory dates from the Benedictines, who held the land and planted vines, and the traces of their work are everywhere, in the cellars, the walls and the layout of the terraces. Lutry's wine is mostly Chasselas, a white grape that produces a light, dry, mineral wine that tastes of the stone and the lake. It is the standard drink of western Switzerland, and pairs well with cheese fondue or a plate of fish from the lake.
For a rider, Lutry is the start of a gentle, rewarding ride along the Corniche de Lavaux, the narrow road that threads between the vines high above the lake. The bends are tight and the surface is smooth, with walls on both sides and sudden views across the water to the mountains of Savoy. Traffic can be an issue, because the road is narrow and popular with cyclists and walkers, and on weekends in the harvest season it can be very slow. The main road along the lake is faster but busier, with traffic lights and heavy lorries. For a quiet visit, aim for a weekday in spring or autumn, preferably in the morning, when the light is soft on the water.
Lutry is a town, not a village, so there are fuel stations, supermarkets, bakeries and restaurants, and Lausanne is only a few kilometres away if you need anything more. Parking can be tight in the old town, and motorcycle bays near the harbour are usually the easiest option. A coffee on the harbour front, with the sailing boats bobbing in the water, is a pleasant way to spend a short while.
In September and October, the grape harvest brings tractors and pickers to the terraces, and the air smells of crushed fruit and wine cellars. Walk up through the vines for a few hundred metres, and the view back across the lake is one of the best in the country.