Luso is where Portuguese mineral water comes from, and it is also where one of the great forests in the country begins. The little spa town sits at the foot of the Buçaco hills, and for generations visitors came to take the waters. The water is still bottled here and sold across the country under the name of the town, and the spa buildings and old hotels give Luso a gentle, slightly faded charm.
Above the town lies the Mata Nacional do Buçaco, a walled forest first cultivated by Carmelite monks in the seventeenth century. Inside you will find ancient trees from around the world, including cedars and giant ferns, with paths, fountains and chapels hidden in the shade. At the heart of the forest stands the Palace Hotel do Buçaco, an extravagant building in the late Manueline style, built in the early twentieth century as a royal retreat. The forest also saw a famous battle in 1810, when the Duke of Wellington's army held the ridge against the French under Masséna during the Peninsular War.
The roads up through the forest and across the ridge are lovely: narrow, shaded and twisting, with lots of tight bends beneath the tall trees. The surface can be damp and covered with leaves, and the cool air in the woods can be a relief on a hot day. The forest walls limit parking and traffic, so it is usually calm. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with clear air and soft light, while summer brings more visitors and hot afternoons at lower levels.
Luso has about two and a half thousand people, with shops, cafes and a few restaurants, though for a wider choice the nearby towns of Mealhada and Arcos are the places to look. Mealhada is the capital of roast suckling pig, the leitão, which is the dish of the Bairrada wine country, and a lunch there is a Portuguese rite. A cup of coffee in the old spa town or a glass of water from the fountain is a gentle way to pause before the forest climb.