Here the forest begins to close in on Berlin. Grünheide, a village of about seven and a half thousand, sits between the Peetzsee and the Werlsee, and its streets run among tall pines. It has become better known in recent years because the electric car maker Tesla opened a large factory in the forest on the edge of town in 2022.
The label points to Lusatia, the lake district about a hundred kilometres to the south-east, where huge open-cast lignite mines, Tagebau in German, are being turned into lakes. The ride there shows an extraordinary landscape of raw cuts in the earth, giant excavators and new water, a place that is changing before your eyes. Back here, the contrast is soft, with sandy soil, birch and pine, and the smell of resin on a warm day.
Riding in this region is simple and pleasant. Roads run straight through the woods, with long avenues of old trees and a surface that is mostly good, though sand can drift across the lane in places. Cobbles still appear in villages. In dry summers, forest fire danger is high, and signs at the roadside show the daily level. Deer and wild boar cross at dawn and dusk, so slow down. Cyclists and walkers use the lakeshore paths in good numbers.
Spreenhagen has fuel and a few shops, and Grünheide has a couple of cafes and a petrol station, with larger services in Erkner, a short ride west. The lakes are popular for swimming, and the best way to end a hot day is a plunge in the Peetzsee. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with cooler air and fewer crowds.