Lulusar sits in a cup of high mountains at the head of the Kaghan Valley, at somewhere around 3,400 metres, and when you first see it the colour looks wrong: a deep, cold blue lying against grey scree and snowfields as if someone had spilled ink between the peaks. The lake is the source of the Kunhar River, which runs down through Naran and eventually joins the Jhelum, and the road to Babusar Pass runs right along its shore. It is one of those places where you are glad to have a stop planned, because the surface is usually mirror-calm in the early morning and full of reflected mountains.
Riding this far up the valley is an adventure in itself. From Naran the road climbs past Besal through wide meadows, then up into a barren high country where trees disappear and the wind tastes of snow. The tarmac is patchy, mostly paved but with sections broken by meltwater and landslides, and the way is shared with jeeps, buses and herders moving flocks. Oxygen is thinner than you expect, so go slowly, drink water, and do not rush: a rider who feels dizzy at this height should stop and rest rather than push on.
Lulusar belongs to the season. The road and the pass beyond are generally open only in summer, roughly from June into the autumn, and snow can close it early or late. In July and August the grass is green and the shepherds' huts are occupied, and in September the light turns clear and sharp. Weather changes fast; a morning of blue sky can turn to sleet by afternoon, so carry warm layers and waterproofs even in high summer. Local people are generally welcoming, and tea at a roadside shack is a better idea than it sounds when your fingers are cold.
Naran, behind you, is the place to fill the tank and buy supplies, and you should carry spare fuel if you plan to cross over toward Chilas on the other side. Simple food and hot tea are available at small stalls in the warmer months, but do not rely on them. The silence at the water, broken only by wind and the occasional bell on a goat, is the real attraction, and it is worth ten minutes of just standing still.