Luján de Cuyo is the home of Argentine Malbec, and its vineyards climb in terraces up the foothills of the Andes, a little south-west of Mendoza. The district is higher than Maipú, with many of its vineyards at between 900 and 1,100 metres, and the altitude, with its strong sunshine and cool nights, gives the grapes concentrated flavour and a firm structure. Names like Perdriel, Agrelo and Vistalba are known to wine drinkers across the world, and the stony soils of the old riverbed are said to be ideal.
The setting is dramatic. On the western horizon, the snow-covered Andes rise above the vines, and on clear mornings the peaks seem close enough to touch. The air is dry, the sun is fierce, and the colours of the countryside are striking, with green vines against the tawny earth and blue sky. Poplars and willows line the irrigation channels, and the smell of warm earth and dust hangs in the air. Occasionally, a hot, dry wind called the zonda blows down from the mountains, bringing dust and a strange electric mood.
Some of the oldest wineries in Mendoza are here, with adobe cellars from the nineteenth century, and a new generation of architect-designed buildings stand alongside them. Many offer tours and tastings, and some have restaurants serving long, slow lunches, with asado, empanadas and local cheeses. Tastings need to be booked ahead at most places, and designated drivers are a sound idea.
The road west from Luján de Cuyo climbs along Route 7, which follows the Mendoza River up the valley toward Potrerillos and Uspallata, and eventually crosses the Andes into Chile. The Cacheuta hot springs lie on this road, with thermal baths in a gorge, and are a good place for a rest. The scenery gets wilder as you climb, with bare rock and canyons, and the road has a mix of tunnels, curves and long straights. Trucks are heavy and frequent, so be careful when overtaking.
The wine roads themselves are flat and quiet, but watch the irrigation ditches. Mendoza, seventeen kilometres away, has everything, and Luján itself has fuel stations along the main roads. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and the harvest in March is a special time.