Lozna is a village in the northern hills of Sălaj county, close to the Someș river, a place of small farms, orchards and wooden houses, and Curmăturița is a saddle in the hills above it, where a Roman watchtower is thought to have stood. The northern frontier of Roman Dacia ran through this area, following ridges and river valleys, and small towers and forts were placed to watch over the approaches. Today there is little to see, but the view from the saddle, over the rolling hills and the Someș valley, is lovely, and it explains why the Romans chose the spot.
The countryside around Lozna is quiet and traditional, with hay meadows, plum orchards and patches of forest. The villages have wooden churches, some of them old, and the people are welcoming to visitors. In autumn, the smell of plum brandy, țuică, being distilled in the yards fills the air.
Jibou, seventeen kilometres away, is the nearest town, with fuel, shops and services. It is home to the Wesselényi castle, a Baroque palace of a Hungarian noble family, and a botanical garden, one of the largest in Romania, with greenhouses and gardens. The Someș valley, between Jibou and Dej, is a winding river road through wooded hills, with a railway line alongside.
The roads in the hills are narrow, winding and often in poor condition, with potholes, gravel and dirt sections, so ride carefully, especially in wet weather. Watch out for horse carts, animals and farm vehicles. The main road along the Someș is better, with gentle curves and good views. May is lovely, with orchards in blossom and meadows full of flowers, and September brings the plum harvest and long, soft evenings. Whatever the month, carry water and something to eat, since village shops keep irregular hours, and allow time to talk: in places like Lozna, a stranger on a motorcycle is still an event, and the conversation that follows is often the best part of the day.