Lovrafjorden is a quiet arm of water in the Ryfylke region, on the road through the country north-east of Stavanger, and it has the character of many Norwegian fjords: steep walls of rock, a narrow channel of dark water, and farms perched on small ledges above the shore. The surface of the water is often so still that the mountains double themselves in it, and early in the morning, with a thread of mist on the water, the effect is quiet and complete. The fjord is not one of the famous ones, and that is part of its charm. You may have it almost to yourself.
The road follows the shore and then climbs over the shoulder of the hills, with bends that are narrow and tight, and views that open and close. The surface is generally good, and the traffic is light, so it is a comfortable ride for those who like to take their time. Small bridges cross the streams that tumble down the slopes, and in spring, when the snow melts, the waterfalls are at their best. Rain is common, and mist can fill the fjord within minutes. Take warm and waterproof clothes, because the temperature falls quickly in the shade.
The story of this country is one of hard, patient work. Farmers cleared the slopes, built terraces and walls, and brought hay down from the high pastures on their backs, and many of the farms are now abandoned or used as summer homes. Hydropower came in the twentieth century, and with it dams, tunnels and power lines, which changed the valleys and the economy. In Sauda, nearby, industry took over from farming, and the town grew around the smelters and the power stations.
Fuel is the thing to plan. Small settlements along the fjord have little, and Sauda, the nearest town with a population of a few thousand, has a pump and a supermarket. Etne, on the other side of the hills, is smaller. Start the day with a full tank, and carry a snack and a flask. The best times are early morning and late evening, when the light is low, the air is still, and the water holds the colour of the sky.